Norway: To the top of the world

This was published by Traveloscopy in June 2018

June 11, 2018

Norway: To the top of the world

Len Rutledge heads about as far North as you can go.

Norway is a big country. Oslo, the capital is in the south. Alta, where we are heading is over 1700 kilometres to the north. Fortunately, there is a direct flight. At the airport, we rent a car and head out to explore an area that is radically different to anything in Australia.

Alta

People have lived here for more than 10,000 years. The major site of interest is the Alta Museum. There is an excellent indoor exhibition explaining the local rock art and giving a broader introduction to Finnmark’s prehistory. The exhibition also teaches us that in the Sámi (Laplander) religion, nature was regarded as possessing a soul and being alive.

Alta Museum is linked by a boardwalk to a UNESCO World Heritage Rock Carving site where there is a series of carvings from up to 7,000 years ago. These are extensive and took an hour to enjoy. Approximately 3,000 figures have been found here making it one of the largest collections in Europe.

The modern Northern Lights Cathedral is both a church and a northern lights attraction. The nearby central square is traffic-free and good for a short wander. There are tours to the 300-metre-deep Sautso-Alta Canyon, and to mountain bike paths near the Alta River.

Experience the Sámi culture

The bleak country south and east of Alta is the home of the indigenous Nordic people, Sámireindeer-herders. Frankly, it is only the Sámi culture that is of great interest here and this can be depressingly difficult to see in the middle of summer when many Sámi have moved to the coastal pastures. The best time to visit is during the Easter festival when there are concerts, church services, and traditional sports.

Kautokeino is a permanent town and the principal winter camp of the Sámi people but it is a somewhat desolate place strung out along the highway. A couple of kilometres south of town is Juhis Silver Gallery, an amazing attraction with a workshop and a wonderful display area. In the centre of a major city, this would be a sensation, here in the wilderness it is mind-blowing. The items being produced here are mainly sold in the exclusive boutiques of Europe and North America.

Karasjok is the capital of the Sámi and is more organized than Kautokeino. It is only 18 km from the Finnish border and here we find the Sámi parliament and several museums and attractions. The Sami Artists Centre is an art gallery devoted to Sami painters. Don’t miss it.

Hammerfest

We travel further north through the treeless and barren landscape to Hammerfest on the shore of rugged Kvaloya Island. This is the world’s northern-most substantial town and amazingly, it was the first place in Europe with electric street lighting.

The town was totally leveled during World War II and the interesting Reconstruction Museum details the dramatic events including the forced evacuation of the population, the town burning to the ground, and the subsequent reconstruction.

You don’t have to go far to see roaming reindeer herds. We encountered one at the entrance to a substantial tunnel on the main road not far from town. If boating is your thing, there are trips to several little fishing villages along the rugged coast.

North Cape

North Cape/Nordkapp is touted as the most northern point of continental Europe. Near North Cape, there are several alternatives. Skarsvag, the nearest fishing village, has boat trips, fishing, bird-watching, and whale safaris. Cycle and kayak rental are also available. In the same area, the Church Gate rock formation offers excellent views of North Cape, the Horn, and the midnight sun.

North Cape has been a visitor attraction for several hundred years. You can only enter this area after paying a fairly hefty fee but we found it worthwhile. Outside you can see the King Oscar Monument which was built in 1873 to mark the outermost limit of the Norway-Sweden union. The Globe monument erected in 1977 has become the symbol of the North Cape and is a popular photographic spot.

North Cape Hall is a large tourist center with a host of facilities including a film on a wrap-around screen about the four seasons. The Tunnel has exhibitions about the North Cape’s long history as a tourist destination and this leads to St Johannes Chapel which is the world’s northernmost ecumenical chapel.

Nearby is a Thailand Museum because this spot was visited by King Chulalongkorn more than 100 years ago. Finally, we reach the Cave of Light which is a new attraction providing a journey through the seasons by way of sound and light.

It is still 530 kilometres to Kirkenes near the border with Russia. This was bombed more often than any place in Europe except Malta during World War II. This area is so remote from Oslo that Finland and Russia have had more influence on the area than Norway at various times. You see this in the church architecture and even in some of the language.

www.LenRutledge.com
Len is the author of Experience Norway 2018 available as an ebook or paperback from http://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GL6T29

Words: Len Rutledge  Images: Phensri Rutledge

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

1.     Alta Rock Art
2.     Juhis Siver Gallery at Kautokeiro
3.     North Cape Globe Monument
4.     Sami Turf House at Karasjock
5.     Wandering reindeer by road tunnel Hammerfest

You might also like:
Brisbane to Townsville – take the long way
The splendour and variety of India’s Golden Triangle
The Outback and fascinating Lava Tubes at Undara.

More new editions for 2018

Here are four more new editions of Experience Guides for 2018. They are available as ebooks or paperbacks from www.amazon.com.

Melbourne: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078R1CZMF

Myanmar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GTRF3T

Ireland: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GJW75K

Norway:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GL6T29

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All books now available

This is just a reminder that the eight 2016 editions of Experience Guides are available as e-books and paperbacks. Probably the easiest way to find them is to go to www.amazon.com then type Len Rutledge into the search bar. All the books in both formats should then appear. Amazon allows about 10% of the book to be read free for those who are interested.

Experience Guides books pics

New listings on Amazon

Amazon has changed its way of identifying books. This is how to find these four Experience Guides.

Experience Thailand e-book; http://www.amazon.com/Experience-Thailand-2016-Guides-ebook/dp/B01911VVBU/

Experience Norway e-book; http://www.amazon.com/Experience-Norway-2016-Guides-ebook/dp/B01A2PHMQM/

Experience Norway paperback; http://www.amazon.com/Experience-Norway-2016-Guides/dp/151958959X/

Experience Northern Italy e-book; http://www.amazon.com/Experience-Northern-Italy-2016-Guides-ebook/dp/B01BA6E526/

Experience Northern Italy paperback; http://www.amazon.com/Experience-Northern-Italy-2016-Guides/dp/1523809949/

Experience Myanmar (Burma) e-book; http://www.amazon.com/Experience-Myanmar-Burma-2016-Guides-ebook/dp/B01A2X781S/

Experience Myanmar (Burma) paperback; http://www.amazon.com/Experience-Myanmar-Burma-2016-Guides/dp/1522829652/

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Experience Norway 2015

Experience Norway has consistently been one of the best sellers in the Experience Guide series and now we have a much expanded and improved 2015 edition. With the addition of nearly 10,000 words, a number of additional images and all new maps this is the perfect book for those thinking of visiting Norway or for those just interested in the country.

Experience Norway 2015 is available now at http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5BKZJ8

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Frozen boosts Norway tourism

Frozen, the Disney animated movie that has been a children’s hit in many countries has caused a rise in visitations to Norway.

Norway was the principal setting for the movie, and many of the cultural influences in the film come from Norwegian culture. Several major landmarks in Norway appear in the film, including three of my favourites the Akweshus Fortress in Oslo, the Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim, and Bryggen in Bergen. Numerous other Norwegian attractions are also included in the film, such as stave churches, trolls, Viking ships, clothes, and food.

There has also been a spin-off for my book Experience Norway which is now the most popular in the Experience book series. Sales have increased by more than 25% in the past few months due no doubt in part to the movie. Thank you Disney Films!

Copies can be purchased for US$3.99 at http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006XG0URI

Vigeland Sculpture Park

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Brilliant Bergen

Nearly forty years ago I fell in love. Not with another person but with a city. I was wandering around Europe and had arrived in Bergen. Something captivated me and since then I have been saying that Bergen is my favourite small city in the world.

We humans are strange creatures and I resisted returning to Bergen for many years. I guess I was frightened that my memories would be shattered and that Bergen would no longer be special. I should not have worried. When I finally returned I still loved the place and each subsequent visit has reinforced that. Then last year my wife and I spent some wonderful days in Bergen being tourists again. Yes, it has changed but it has not lost its magic. The city with ‘its feet in the sea and its head in the sky’ still has its heart and soul in the right places and its beauty is happily shared with visitors.

Ever since Viking King Olav Kyrre sailed into the harbour and founded the city in 1070, Bergen has attracted people from all parts of the world. So important was Bergen by the 13th century that the Hansas – the German Medieval guild of merchants – opened one of their four European offices on a wharf called Bryggen. Much from that time has gone but reminders of past centuries remain today. The area has become a symbol of Bergen’s cultural heritage and has gained a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Bergen grew up around its colourful harbour. It is still the heart and soul of the city. Forty years ago it was filled with fishing boats and the fish market on the quay was an exciting, thriving, smelly place just bursting with atmosphere. Now the harbour is thronged with expensive pleasure craft from around the world and the market has a few stalls selling seafood but many more with fruit, vegetables, handicrafts, clothing and souvenirs. It’s different but still spectacular.

Bergen’s setting – amidst seven hills and sheltered by a series of straggling islands – is brilliant. You see it best from the top of the Floibanen funicular railway. The modern glass funicular goes to the top of Mount Floyen in about seven minutes. At the top you have wonderful views, a fine restaurant, a cafe, souvenir shop, children’s play area and numerous footpaths into the surrounding mountains. If you walk back down the hill you will see some of the charming small wooden houses that are so much part of the city.

Extract from Experience Norway.

1From Mount Floyen

Two Oslo Attractions

Oslo, Norway’s attractive capital, has many attractions and two outdoor venues are high on the list of things to do. Oslo’s most visited museum attraction is an outdoor sculpture park. The Vigeland Sculpture Park (Tel: 2349 3700; Email: postmottak.vigeland@vigeland.museum.no) covers an area of 80 acres. The 212 remarkable sculptures were all designed by Gustav Vigeland. He also designed the architectural setting and the layout of the grounds. The sculptures are placed on an 850-meter long axis divided into 5 main sections. There is also a Vigeland Museum but this is much less known.

The park has sculptures in bronze and granite and several wrought iron gates. Vigeland modelled all his sculptures in full size and the result is stunning. The carving in stone and the casting in bronze were left to a number of talented craftsmen who worked with him.

The construction of the park took quite a few years. The area east of the two Frogner ponds was opened to the public in the 1890s. The area west of the ponds was in 1924 given to Vigeland for the construction of the Fountain, the Monolith and the many granite groups at the Monolith plateau. Around 1930 the sculpture park was enlarged eastwards, to include a new bridge decorated with sculptures and a unique main entrance in granite and wrought iron.

Unfortunately, Vigeland did not live to see the completed park. The majority of the sculptures and the architectural elements were not installed until about 1950. The municipality of Oslo was the main contributor to the realization of the Vigeland Park. However, a number of private persons and companies gave generous financial support. The result is a park unique in the world.

The park is about three kilometers to the northwest of the main center of the city. It is walkable on a nice day but you can also reach here by tram from the central city. You enter through the Main Gate made of wrought iron and granite. Constructed in 1926, it is an impressive feature. This main gate comprises two common gates and five major gates. There are two gatehouses with roofs made of copper.

Between the Main Gate and the Fountain, you will find the famous bronze statue of the ‘little angry boy’. This is one of the most popular sculptures in the park and you need to line up to photograph it at busy times.

Just after crossing the bridge, you see the Children’s Playground. There are eight statues made of bronze showing children at play. Right in the middle of the playground is a granite structure on top of which is the sculpture of a fetus. The area also has a pond where you will probably see some geese and ducks swimming.

The Fountain formed out of bronze features 60 separate figurines. The concept of death giving way to a new life is depicted by the several sculptures of skeletons and children in the arms of huge trees. Around the Fountain is a mosaic pattern in white and black granite.

At the Monolith Plateau you will see 36 statues portraying the concept of “circle of life”. There are eight wrought iron gates giving access to the plateau. The Monolith is the highest spot in the park. This towering structure is quite astounding and consists of 121 statues of human beings protruding upwards. I could have spent an hour here just admiring the sculptures and watching the visitors.

The Vigeland Museum is a ten-minute walk away. This is the studio of the Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland. In the tower is an urn containing Vigeland’s ashes. There are nine rooms on the ground floor showing a wide selection of sculptures and certain drawings. Two rooms on the next floor show plastic sketches, drawings and woodcuts. Gustav Vigeland’s flat with two sitting rooms, library and bedroom is on the top floor.

 

One of Norway’s most visited tourist attractions, the Holmenkollen Ski Jump (Tel: 2292 3200; Email: kultur@skiforeningen.no) is only a few kilometers north of the central city. This comprises the Ski Jump Tower with its spectacular views, the world’s oldest ski museum and a ski simulator where you can feel for yourself what it´s like to jump at Holmenkollen or race across county with some of the world’s fastest skiers.

There are also gift and souvenir shops, the Hoppcafè with its special Kollen-cake and a pleasant public area with outdoor service. The information in the Ski Museum is in Norwegian and English. The Holmenkollen ski jump, is host to the world’s second oldest ski jumping competition still in existence (the oldest being hosted by a small, local club named Medicinernes Ski Club in nearby Seterkollen).

The first competition in Holmenkollen proper was in 1892. Watched by a crowd of 10,000, the length achieved by the winner, Svein Sollid from Telemak, was 21.5metres. The capacity of the stands has today been increased to over 50,000 people and the jump has been extended 18 times since it was first built. This has allowed longer and longer jump records. Today’s tower extends 60 meters above ground.

During its time as a ski arena, it has served as host to nine different Nordic skiing and biathlon world championships, including the 1952 Winter Olympics. In 1923, the Holmenkollen Ski Museum, located at the base of the tower, opened. It is the oldest ski museum in the world.

Midway down the ski jump, and on the main entrance from the parking area, there is a simulator which allows you to see and feel what the ski jumpers experience. My wife tried this and said it was a great thrill.

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Thought to Ponder:

I’m a slow walker, but I never walk back.

Abraham Lincoln

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For more information on Norway see Experience Norway an ebook available at www.amazon.com/kindle then search Len Rutledge.